Main menu

A Fly Topstitch: The Typical Drawing Mistake

Hello Everyone,

Despite continued Covid woes the new Holiday Season is coming and I wish everyone happiness, health and prosperity!

When you learn how to create technical flat garments, it is very important to be attentive to the smallest details. Any designer’s mistake or incorrect interpretation of a technical drawing by a manufacturer may incur significant financial and reputational losses.

Today I would like to tell about a serious mistake that students often make when they create a technical drawing of pants. Unfortunately, this mistake can be found sometimes even in textbooks for fashion designers. It might happen if the technical drawing of a garment is done by an illustrator or a graphic designer who don’t understand the garment construction process.

I saw many times as students draw a solid line instead of a dashed fly topstitching line.

In my opinion, this is due to the fact that in many textbooks a fly topstitching in a conceptual drawing of pants is depicted as a solid line. It can be tolerated in a conceptual garment drawing, but in a technical drawing of pants the solid line instead of the dashed topstitching line means a seam!!!

If you draw a fly top stitching as a dashed line, a front pattern piece of pants may look like it is shown below:

Technical drawing and a pattern piece

If you draw a solid line as a fly line in the technical drawing of pants, it means a seam line instead of topstitch. The pattern will look accordingly as on the image below:

Technical drawing and pattern pieces

It’s ok if your idea was related to a theater costume. Yet it could be an absolutely different story if you didn’t mean it and your drawing was misinterpreted. Fancy that!

Stylized drawing of pants

Of course, a fashion designer should be creative and capable of generating various ideas. However, a good fashion designer should understand pattern drafting and garment construction processes very well.

Learn how to use Adobe Illustrator tools for drawing garments by studying with my e-textbook "The Craft of Garment Design with Adobe Illustrator".

Popular topics